You know what's deadly for permit? A well-tied crab fly—especially when the tide's right. Honestly, I've lost count of how many fish I've taken on crab patterns over the years, but I'll never forget that 30-inch redfish in Tampa Bay that absolutely crushed a merkin-style fly I'd tied the night before.

Tying It Right (Without Overthinking It)

Most guides I know swear by 3/0 hooks—or was it 2/0? Doesn’t matter much as long as you’ve got a short to medium shank. Chenille bodies work fine, but if you really want that je ne sais quoi, try blending in some UV dubbing for that subtle glow when the sun hits the flats just right. And those legs? Now, some folks overcomplicate the legs—silicone or rubber strands are perfect, just keep 'em sparse. Too many legs and your fly starts doing the cha-cha instead of scuttling like a real crab.

The dumbbell eyes aren’t just for looks—they make it kick sideways like a spooked crab when you strip-pause. And here’s a pro tip: weight the fly so the hook rides up. I’ve seen too many beginners skip the weed guard (rookie mistake) and spend more time yanking their fly out of mangrove roots than fishing.

Why Fish Can’t Resist It

Crab patterns imitate, well, crabs—but here’s the thing most folks miss: it’s not just about the shape. It’s that twitch-and-freeze retrieve. Last season in the Keys, I noticed bonefish would ignore a steady strip but hammer the fly after it sat still for two seconds. And permit? They’ll follow a crab fly like it owes them money before committing.

When and Where to Fish It

Save this pattern for when the tide’s pushing bait into the mangroves or when you see fish tailing in skinny water. Cast ahead, let it sink—I can’t stress this enough: slow retrieves—and twitch it like a crab dodging a hungry snook. Oh, and if you’re not occasionally snagging bottom, you’re fishing it wrong.

Fun fact: real crabs don’t swim gracefully. They panic. So should your fly.