A Fisherman’s Paradise: Valtellina’s Hidden Alpine Waters

Honestly, if you’re a fly fisher, Valtellina is the kind of place that’ll ruin you for anywhere else. I remember the first time I stumbled upon one of those high-altitude lakes near Bormio—the water had this unreal turquoise hue, like liquid gemstones, and the trout were rising like they hadn’t eaten in weeks. Funny thing is, they probably hadn’t, given how few anglers make it up there.

You’ve got, oh, around 200 streams here? Maybe more—I’ve lost count over the years. Plus 110 alpine lakes (some no bigger than a backyard pool, but hold wild browns that’ll snap your 5X tippet without blinking) and 24 reservoirs that locals swear are cursed because the fish either ignore you or demolish your flies. All told, we’re talking 1,250 kilometers of fishable water. Let that sink in. You could spend weeks here and still not hit half the Euro-style nymphing spots or those hidden pockets where grayling stack up like cordwood. And hey, if you need a break, Lake Como’s right there—fancy a spritz after a long day of wrestling Salmo trutta?

Speaking of species, let’s talk fish. The brown trout here? Chef’s kiss. They’re not the cookie-cutter stockers you’ll find down south. These are wild, gnarly fish that’ve been dodging otters since birth. Size 18 flies after June runoff, trust me. And the grayling—oh man, the grayling. There’s a stretch near Passo Gavia where they rise to dries like they’re auditioning for a Hemingway novel. Rainbow trout? Yeah, they’re around, mostly in the lower reservoirs, but honestly, why bother when the native browns are so much prettier?

Side note: The afternoon winds near Chiesa can be brutal—like, "why did I even cast?" brutal. But stick it out till dusk. That’s when the granite boulders turn pink and the big boys start feeding. Just watch your backcast; the junipers here have a thirst for expensive fly lines.

Anyway, if you’re looking for a place where you can fish yourself into a coma and still wake up hungry for more, welcome to Valtellina. Bring your A-game, a good rain jacket (weather changes faster than a trouth’s mood), and maybe a notebook. You’ll need it to remember all the spots you’ll swear to keep secret.